All The Different Biking Routines Will Help You Grow Taller

Bicycles & Their Equipments To Help You Grow Taller

Remember how free you felt on your first set of wheels? Riding a bike is just plain fun, and it is not just for kids to grow taller. Riding for fitness means you ride with intensity, specifically with speed and for time, or using hills to build strength and grow taller. When you ride with intensity, bicycling is an aerobic activity that uses your hip, buttock, and thigh muscles. There is no pounding (as there is in running), and as long as you have a proper fit with your bike, you may feel as though you can ride forever.

If biking piques your interest to grow taller, you can enjoy road or mountain biking, or both! Road biking takes place on the road, and allows you to travel long distances with speed. Mountain biking is more technical and requires a sense of adventure and a secure sense of balance to grow taller. Although the name implies it, mountain bike riding does not mean you are limited to riding on mountains. To ensure you have the proper frame size and fit on a bike, talk to your local bike-store expert or bike club. As far as seat positioning goes, your knees should have a slight bend (15 to 20 degrees) when you are in the down phase of the pedal stroke, and your hips should not sway from side to side when you pedal.

Riding a bike is a great way to get a hard workout in a short amount of time. You can ride indoors and out to grow taller. Of course, riding outside will give you lots of fresh air, which will help you feel healthy and refreshed. Of course, if you have never ridden a bike in your life and have no idea what it feels like, you need to go to a different book first. Once you can ride a bike and can balance safely, come back to this page. Now, for the rest of you, if you are riding again for the first time in a long time, do so in an area where you can relax and familiarize yourself with the gearing and braking systems. They may seem complicated at first, but once you understand how they work, you’ll breeze right through them. Your body will initially have to adjust to cycling, so limit your first few rides to shorter periods of time and build up to longer rides gradually to grow taller.

The pedal stroke is a smooth, circular motion to grow taller. You want to not only push on the downstroke but also pull on the upstroke. This is hard to do on a bike that does not have toe clips or clipless pedals (an explanation of these terms follows shortly), but it is the correct bicycling motion. Biking Technicalities to grow taller: How do you know how hard to ride and which gears to use? The sport of bicycling has three major themes: efficiency, practicality, and self-sufficiency. Gearing is all about efficiency.

You want to ride in the gear that will allow you to spin at a cadence that is comfortable yet taxing (here’s the good ol’ overload principle again). Spinning means pedaling with quick, even strokes at a comfortable and efficient cadence; this causes less fatigue in the legs than when pedaling at a lower cadence in a more strenuous gear. To spin, the selected gear has to be at a tension that allows you to push the crank (what the pedals are attached to) without straining to grow taller. Cadence refers to the rhythm and number of revolutions per minute that you turn the crank.

To help you visualize this: serious cyclists spin at 90 to 110 rpms, and recreational riders spin at roughly 70 to 90 rpms. Cadence will vary depending upon many conditions, such as whether you are riding on a smooth road or rugged trail, or up or down a hill. The beauty of thinking about your cadence and spinning is that it keeps you from pushing a gear too hard, and that helps you avoid straining your muscles and other injuries. Once again, more is not always better to grow taller.  Mountain bikes allow you to ride on a wide variety of surfaces, including-grass, dirt, rock, puddles, and paved roads.

Mountain bikes are bigger, heavier, and more stable than road bikes, and at rest are more comfortable than road bikes. However, when you are riding a mountain bike up or down a dirt path, and over rocks or tree roots, comfort becomes a relative term to grow taller. Mountain bikes have three chain rings (for gearing) and numerous gearing options that make it possible to ride through all types of challenges. The wheels and tires are larger than on any other type of bike in order to tackle the variety of terrain.

Mountain bikes even come equipped with shock absorbers to help absorb some of the impact from riding over rough areas. Knowledge of how to remedy a flat is important. You’ll need to always bring a patch kit with you, which can be kept inside your saddlebag. Having the equipment with you can make the difference between having a fun experience or a disappointing one. The last thing you want to do is walk your bike home after you’ve already ridden for a few miles. Hybrid bikes are a combination of mountain bikes and road bikes.

They are best for those who prefer to ride on roads (great for commuting) but want greater stability and comfort to grow taller than what road bikes offer. Hybrids are slower than road bikes and not nearly sturdy enough for serious mountain biking. They are heavier than road bikes but not as bulky or as heavy as mountain bikes. Road bikes are made from various grades of steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, and titanium. Generally, the lighter yet stronger materials command the heftier prices.

Components is the term used to describe everything but the frame; it includes the brakes, shifters, derailleurs (front and rear), chain, chain rings, and cogs. Higher-priced components deliver a smoother, lighter, more reliable, more efficient, and more durable riding experience than lower-priced components to grow taller. Bike Equipment and Parts
Cycling is very much a sport dependent on equipment. The type of bike you have and its parts greatly influences how fast you’ll go and how efficient your ride will be.

If you’re struggling to go fast because your bike isn’t streamlined or appropriately sized, then you won’t get the most muscular and cardiovascular benefit. Your ride should be challenging because of the course, not because your bike is old or broken down. Aerobars are a Necessity is the mother of invention to grow taller, and that is exactly how aerobars came to be born. Since drafting (following closely behind another rider to avoid wind resistance) is not allowed in triathlons, triathletes and bike manufacturers came up with a legal way to cut down on wind resistance.

Aerobars are U-shaped handlebars (or a handlebar extension device) that position riders more aerodynamically, with less air resistance. To use aerobars, the bicyclist leans forward and rests the forearms in the aerobar pads. In this position there is less air and wind resistance than in upright riding. They are best used on flat, smooth courses. In addition to reducing wind drag, aerobars offer a greater level of comfort to grow taller. They give the arms, shoulders, and hands a better feel as compared to riding down in the handlebar drops (the lower curling portion of the handlebar) or on top of the hood levers (the area on top of the brake levers).

What is sacrificed in the aero position is dexterity and handling ability, but because riders can move freely in and out of the aero position as needed, it’s still worth it to use aerobars. Aerobars can be used effectively on road, touring, and mountain bikes. Toe clips are metal or plastic pieces that partially cover the feet and help keep each foot attached to its pedal. After the rider inserts his foot into the toe clip, he tightens the toe strap to secure the foot in place to grow taller. Toe clips keep the foot from coming off the pedal.

They allow the rider to pedal efficiently because, with the foot secured on the pedal, the rider can pull up with forceful tension to create equal resistance through the entire circular range of motion of the pedal stroke. But toe clips have two major drawbacks. The first is that they can cause the feet to go numb. The second drawback is you need to remember to get out of them. To release a foot from a toe clip, the rider must loosen the toe strap first before pulling the foot up out of the cleat and out of the toe clip.

Many riders either forget to loosen the strap, or can’t react fast enough and fall over to the side, still attached to the bike at the pedal! Usually these falls happen at slow speed or when the rider is just barely moving, so the greatest injury is usually to the ego and not the body. Clipless Pedals to grow taller: These are safer, faster, and more comfortable! Clipless pedals mimic the downhill skiboot-binding system, yet with a sleeker, lighter, bicycle-specific adaptation.

These funny-looking devices keep the cyclist’s foot firmly in place on top of the pedal to grow taller. Some even allow for wiggle room while the foot is attached to the pedal. To get into a clipless pedal, the rider steps into the cleat until a clicking sound is made, indicating that the pedal has received the cleat. To exit a clipless pedal, the rider simply pulls the foot up and out, away from the bike.

The exiting, pulling action starts with leverage from rotating the heel out and continues with pull coming from the rest of the leg to grow taller. The learning curve for getting in and out of clipless pedals is short, and cyclists can easily practice on the bike without worrying about injuring themselves. Once mastered, cyclists enjoy the freedom and strength they get from using clipless pedals.

Clipless pedals provide for efficient, comfortable pedaling because the rider’s foot, shoe, and cleat are securely attached to the pedal. The clipless system makes getting the feet in and out of the pedal easier and safer than with a traditional toe-clip system.
Helmet: Absolutely, positively wear one. Even if you are an experienced rider, you can’t control the other entities that could force you off your bike unexpectedly.

Hard shell ANSI or Snell-approved helmets are recommended, and when it comes to quality, you do not want to skimp here. Most helmets are designed as one-crash helmets to grow taller. That means they have a life of one crash. Some of the reputable companies will replace your helmet if you send the raked helmet to them along with your crash story. (Sounds odd at first, but after all, it is their business.) The biggest error made by novice cyclists is not wearing the helmet properly. It should fit snugly enough so that even before you tighten and secure the straps, it should firmly grasp your head without moving around.

The helmet should rest toward the front of the forehead, should not slant up at an angle, and should cover the entire top of the head. Essential Even if your helmet has an attached visor, you’ll still want to protect your eyes from the sun, wind, dirt, dust, and other airborne particles by wearing sunglasses.

Sport-style glasses are designed to be lightweight and somewhat flexible. This means they will be comfortable even after many hours of wearing them to grow taller. They are also highly durable, and as with most glasses, they will last a long time—as long as you keep track of them. Shoes: If you are going to ride, you will want to get bicycling shoes. They have a very firm, inflexible bottom and a place for a cleat. The cleat provides added resistance against the pedal and adds strength to your pedal stroke.

Shoes and cleats for mountain and road bikes are different, so make sure you specify which you want to grow taller. Gloves: These resemble the rough guys’ knuckle covers in the old movies because the fingers are covered up only to the first set of knuckles. This allows for finger dexterity and ventilation. The padding on the inside reduces the friction that comes from prolonged riding or unexpected bouncing and jarring.

Gloves help prevent blistering and reduce the overall stress in your hands. They protect your skin from road rash in the event of a fall. The least publicized (until now) but much appreciated role the glove fills is being a convenient handkerchief. You may wish you had a real handkerchief (remember necessity is the mother of invention), but . . . You won’t. And for some reason, when people exercise, their noses have a tendency to run, the corners of their mouths get a residue or saliva buildup, or both occur. Enter the all-too-convenient glove or gloves that can easily wipe away these bodily responses and make you feel better while riding. In case you are wondering, bicycling gloves are washable.

Bike Shorts: Once you ride in biking shorts, you won’t want to ride without them. That’s because of the strategically placed seams and padding. The old-style shorts featured a chamois, soft pliable leather used for padding. But with today’s high-tech fabrics, the leather chamois is nearly history. Synthetic chamois, as they are now known, will delight your personal parts with added support, comfort, and durability. Aside from the chamois, the shorts are made from a stretchy type of material such as Lycra, spandex, and Supplex, which offers support to the hips and leg muscles.

The shorts also help to prevent chafing along the leg and groin area. Question? Why are bike shorts usually black? You are riding along and your chain comes off. You stop and easily put it back on the chain ring. Then you notice the new “artwork” on your hands and gloves made from black dirt and grease. Since you still don’t have a handkerchief with you and you have to get the dirt off your hands, your shorts are the most logical place to rub the dirt off. Now, aren’t you glad your shorts are black?  Biking Jerseys Bicycling is all about being practical and self-sufficient.

The bike jersey-serves that purpose with its multipocketed back. Riders can fit most items in their back pockets, such as bananas (the cyclists’ “meal in a peel”), sports foods, money, cell phones, identification, clothing, and many other items. All are within an arm’s reach. Whereas experienced riders can reach behind them and retrieve the desired item from their pocket while riding and not lose control of the bike, novice riders may want to stop riding before retrieving these items.

Bicycling jerseys are also designed for aerodynamic efficiency and safety. A proper fit is a snug yet comfortable fit. Wearing a baggy shirt while bicycling is dysfunctional and dangerous because it can get caught in your knees and even your chain (if you lean over or down). E-Fact Biking isn’t cheap. Here are some sample costs: bikes ($300–$1000), aerobar ($40+), a helmet ($30–$150), shoes ($60–$200), toe clips/strap ($6), gloves ($12–$30), clipless pedals ($50–$160), sunglasses ($40–$150), tires and tubes ($4–$50), biking shorts ($25–$80), a biking jersey ($21– $70), saddle bag ($6–$12), and a patch kit ($10).

Safe Riding to grow taller, When you ride, you need to follow the rules of the road. Bicyclists must observe traffic signs and signals, and should use hand signals to alert others when turning or stopping, just as they would in cars. If you don’t signal correctly, a car driving near you will not be aware of your intentions to grow taller. Even when it appears that a driver is looking right at you, it is not safe to assume that you are seen and understood. Glare and other distractions play a large factor in drivers’ inability to see a cyclist. On that same note, when you ride on the street alongside parked cars, keep an eye out for drivers and passengers who are opening their car doors and don’t see you coming.

It’s also important to know bicycling etiquette. Communicate to your fellow-cyclists. Common biking jargon includes calling out “on your left” to indicate when you are passing someone. Also, if cyclists are riding close behind you, it is good biking etiquette to point out debris on the road that they may not be able to see because they are close behind you, or “on your wheel.” Here are a few more details to keep in mind when stopping: The left-handed brake lever slows the front wheel; the right-handed brake lever slows the rear wheel.

When you apply the front (left) brake, do so gently to avoid the force of your weight throwing you forward and overboard (or rather, over-bike). To slow down or stop, feather the brakes, which means alternating between squeezing and releasing them. It keeps you from being thrown off the bike, and it keeps your brakes from overheating and becoming less effective. One more way to keep yourself safe when biking is to always make sure you are sufficiently hydrated. You can use two water bottles held in the bicycle’s water-bottle cages.

Most bikes have room for two cages. Or you can use a hands-free drinking system that you wear like a backpack. For really hot or humid days, you may want to use both bottles and a hands-free system. The advantage of using both is that you will be able to carry different fluids such as water and electrolyte replacements to grow taller. Indoor Cycling to grow taller: If you like bicycling without the worries of the road, then stationary bicycling is for you. And if being mindless during exercise is your desire, you can best “slip away” more safely on a stationary bike than on other indoor aerobic equipment. There are computerized and noncomputerized bikes, and upright and recumbent bikes.

Upright bikes position you as you would be on a traditional bike. Recumbent bikes position you in a semireclined position, which means the pedals and your feet are out in front of you. Recumbents were designed to support the lower back. If you suffer from “fanny fatigue” on an upright, you might want to try a recumbent. Neither style is better, so select that which is more comfortable for you. Indoor Biking Is Still Biking to grow taller, Even though stationary bikes may seem like pseudobikes, you still apply the concepts of spinning and cadence to them. Many bikes are equipped with a control panel that will display your cadence in rpms. With a cadence range in mind and a heart-rate monitor, you can familiarize yourself with what levels are aerobic and comfortable.

The biggest cycling error comes from pedaling at too high a resistance (either a high gear or setting). Exercise should challenge your body, but it is not supposed to hurt. Your goal is to spin with an intensity that elevates your heart rate but does not make you strain. The second error associated with bicycling is improper seat position. As mentioned previously, on any bike, you want to have a slight bend of the knee, about 15 to 20 degrees, when your leg is in the down position of the pedal stroke to grow taller.

Essential Before you get into cycling on a stationary bike, it’s a good idea to be familiar with general stationary bike rpm ranges. This knowledge will help you gauge your performance and set goals for yourself. An athlete generally cycles at 90–110 rpms; a person who is very fit will do 80–90 rpms; and a decent workout registers around 70–80 rpms. If you’re down around 60-70 rpms, you may want to double-check to be sure that the tension isn’t set too high. If the bike is mounted on a stand, stand on top of the support feet and then align the pubic bone over the seat. You should not wobble from side to side on the seat. Then get on the bike and pedal for a minute or two with your eyes closed. This will help you focus your attention on how biking at that seat height feels.

Spin Bikes to grow taller: A spin bike is an indoor stationary bike that delivers the feel of an outdoor bike because of its stability, pedal action, and variable resistance. Spin classes are instructor-led group bicycling sessions that feature music, guided imagery, and varying levels of intensity. Although the popularity of these bikes comes partially from the class setting, you can ride them as you would any stationary bike when class is out of session. They have brought a new enthusiasm for indoor bicycling like never before. The pedal action is smooth and circular like that of a fine outdoor bike.

The seat is narrow like a road bike, but a bit more forgiving. The seat also has adjustable settings for height, and for fore and aft positioning. A flywheel generates the resistance, and the bike’s shifter allows you to vary the resistance. The shifter makes a slight click when the resistance is changed. The pedal is two sided; it allows you to use conventional exercise shoes on one side and cleated bicycle shoes on the other. Spin cycles do not have all the electronic feedback of other styles, so if you miss the spin class and want to combat boredom, bring along your headset.

When you compare the feel of this bike to other stationary bikes, it is the closest to the real thing. Do you feel tension in your knees, hips, or groin? Are you wishing you had two more legs to help you pedal? Are you pushing so hard with your legs that you wobble from side to side on the seat? Are you gripping the handlebars with the force of a rock climber? If you answer “yes” to any of the above, you could be straining on the stationary bike. Take it down a notch until you feel more comfortable.

Five Effective Biking Programs to grow taller: There is nothing wrong with just taking a bike ride on a sunny day and not worrying about speed or resistance or mileage. However, as in walking, intensity is key, and another key part of training is knowing how effective your training is. You need to keep track of your mileage, as well as have a general idea of how hard you are working. You can use RPE (see page 11) or you can follow a regular interval program (using resistance on the bike or hills) to see how intense you can make your ride. In terms of distance, adding an inexpensive speedometer to your bike is the best way to keep track of your workouts, but you can also find the distance of a particular path with a car’s odometer. If you know the distance you’re biking, you can keep track of start and stop times to help you judge overall speed.

Your First Few Weeks of Training Before you put yourself on a specific training program (whether you’re on a bicycle outside, or a stationary cycle), take at least a week to work up to what is considered a moderate cycling day of 15 miles. Don’t worry about time or speed on these rides. Take it easy and finish the full 15 miles, which can be done on a track, around your neighborhood, or on a trail (although it shouldn’t be too hilly). The purpose of these rides is to gain and maintain basic cardiovascular fitness for cycling, as well as to get your muscles used to this new job.

After working up to the 15-mile moderate day, you can attempt an endurance day of double the mileage. Try to maintain the same pace you established during moderate days (in other words, it should take you double the time to do this ride). If you need to, slow down to make the full mileage. After a few weeks at this level, try to do the 30 miles once a week. Or, if you work up to consistently higher mileage as part of your workout, do a double-the-mileage day once a week as part of your training to grow taller. Hills and Speed Intervals—Increasing Resistance to grow taller: Now you need to find a trail (either plotted out for you or one you design) that includes at least one big hill. After you do a moderate day ride, go up the hill. Think of the ride down as recovery.

Then, try to go up again. As your fitness improves, add more repeats. Hills increase your power and stamina to grow taller. If there are no hills around you, you can add intensity to your workouts with speed intervals. During a regular moderate day ride, pick a specific distance during which you will pedal faster. It could be, for example, a city block or even something as general as “up to that telephone pole.” or, if you have the odometer on your bike, you could pick a specific distance like a mile. During that interval, speed up to a sprint, pedaling as fast as you can. Start with one each ride, and then add more and longer sprints each time you ride.

Sprint for one “lap,” however long that distance is, and then slow down for a recovery lap, repeating the pattern as much as you want. Interval training and hill work improve overall speed, endurance, and your ability to recover, which are the keys to great fitness and growing taller. Interval Stationary Cycling to grow taller: If you do your cycling workouts on a stationary bicycle, you still need to keep track of your mileage, speed, and resistance. Your resistance, of course, will come not from hills, but from the resistance you enter into your program to grow taller.

The first thing you want to set a goal for is miles per hour, just as outdoor cyclists do. Then, if you want to add resistance, you’ll increase the level number of your ride. This is the equivalent of adding hills to grow taller. Here is a sample interval stationary cycling program using speed as the interval. It assumes that you have worked up to a 15-mile ride, just like the beginner in the first workout to grow taller.
Warm-up: 5 minutes at 11 mph.
Workout: 2 minutes at 15–18 mph; then 1 minute at 12 mph. Do this nine times.
Cooldown: 5 minutes from 11 mph to a slower speed.
Another option is to use resistance as your interval. So, for example, here’s another sample program:
Warm-up: 5 minutes at 10 mph and level 2.
Workout: 2 minutes at 9–11 mph and level 4, alternating with 1 minute at 12–14 mph and level 2. Do this nine times.
Cooldown: 5 minutes, moving from 11 mph to a slower speed with 0 resistance.
These are fairly intense intervals. If you find they are too hard for you in the beginning, feel free to switch the intervals around. So, for example, your recovery time can be twice as long as the time for your intense interval. Eventually you’ll work your way up to doing the program as it is written.
Most of the time, the spinning teacher will lead the class, and you’ll just follow her through the workout. However, if you want to do your own spinning workout, here is one that highlights what makes spinning great: high intensity coupled with a mind-body element.
This ride mimics a trip around part of San Francisco (including a killer hill). The visualization is the mind-body aspect. The best part? No traffic.
Warm-up: you’re going to start in the Marina District. Start with zero resistance for 5 minutes.
One full turn: Stay that way for another 3 minutes.
Fast Flat: Do another two full turns and ride for the next 7 minutes around Fisherman’s Wharf and the Ferry Buildings toward downtown. Try to cycle fairly quickly. This is a speed part of the ride.
Hill: you’re going to go up to Coit Tower, which is an extraordinarily high hill (but not the steepest in the city and fortunately, you don’t have to worry about turns). Raise your resistance three full turns (at least) and stand up to pedal. This should take 4 minutes.
Come down the hill: Lower your resistance two turns and pedal as fast as you can for 2 minutes.
Recover: Raise the resistance one turn and pedal at a moderate speed for 3 minutes.
Fast Flat: Let’s go around downtown and up to Washington Square Park. Raise your resistance one turn and pedal quickly (but not as fast as you can) for 3 minutes.
Slight Incline: Raise your resistance two turns, and stand to pedal for 5 minutes.
Cooldown: Start to lower your resistance, getting it to zero within 5 minutes.
Make sure you stretch your legs after your ride.
Cross-training Stationary Cycling
There are few things as boring and as potentially monotonous as an endurance ride on a stationary bicycle. And if you’re watching TV to make the ride go faster, chances are you won’t be giving your all to the ride. To combat these problems, try the following workout, which is similar to workouts you would get in spinning classes that combine cycling with strength training or yoga or Pilates. These classes, which are very popular with regular spinners, build cardiovascular health as well as upper-body strength through resistance exercise, and increase lower-body strength through cycling. End the workout with an abs routine, and you’ll have done a total body workout in one hour, including cardio.
Preparation: Place a body band near your bike, but not where you would step on it when you get off the bike.
Warm-up: Ride the bike for 5 minutes, gradually going from zero resistance to three full turns.
Slow climb: Do another full turn, and ride that way for 2 minutes. Then do two more full turns, stand up, and ride this way for 3 minutes.
Slow descent: Go down a full turn and sit down for 1 minute.
First strength interval: Get off the bike carefully and get your body band. Put the middle of the band under your foot and hold an end in each hand. Raise your arms in front of you to shoulder height for 30 reps.
Slow climb: Do another full turn, and ride that way for 2 minutes. Then do two other full turns, stand up, and ride this way for 3 minutes.
Slow descent: Go down a full turn, and sit down for 1 minute.
Second strength interval: Get off the bike carefully and get out your body band. Hold the band with each hand about 12 inches away from the center. Bring the band over your head and bring your arms out to your sides in a wide arc. Do this 30 times.
Slow climb: Do another full turn and ride that way for 2 minutes. Then, do two more full turns, stand up, and ride this way for 3 minutes.
Slow descent: Go down a full turn, and sit down for 1 minute.
Third strength interval: Put the center of the band under your foot and hold each end in your hand. Your arms should be straight down.
Bend your elbows and bring your hands toward each shoulder in a bicep curl. Do this thirty times.
Slow climb: Do another full turn, and ride that way for 2 minutes. Then, do two more full turns, stand up, and ride this way for 3 minutes.
Slow descent: Go down a full turn, and sit down for 1 minute.
Fourth strength interval: Put the center of the band under your foot, and hold each end in your hands. Bring the band and your arms behind you and over your head with straight arms. Now, bend your elbows and lower the band behind your head (this is an exercise called a French press). Do this thirty times. You need a very long band to do this. (If you don’t have one, do a traditional triceps kickback with the band.)
Slow climb: Do another full turn, and ride that way for two minutes. Then, do 2 other full turns, stand up, and ride this way for 3 minutes.
Slow descent: Go down a full turn and sit down for 1 minute.
Fifth strength interval: Put the middle of the band across your chest and wrap the ends around your back, holding an end in each hand, palms facing up, hands near your chest, elbows slightly bent. Straighten your arms and bring them forward, away from your torso. Do this 30 times.
Cooldown: Get on your bike and pedal at a moderate pace and resistance, gradually going down to zero resistance. Get off the bike and stretch to grow taller.

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